The Grenadines are part of “St Vincent and the Grenadines” and consist of many small islands south of the big island of St Vincent. On the way south from St Lucia we bypassed St Vincent, mainly due to security issues, that boats have had there. The Grenadine Islands are spread over an area about 40 miles long and 10 miles wide.
Bequia
We stopped in Bequia for about 6 days. Bequia has long been a favourite stop for yachts people (and us). Isolated enough to remain relatively unspoiled, yet lively enough to be stimulating and entertaining, it provides a blend of the old and new that many find perfect. It is an island of sailors and boats. Linked to the outside world mainly by the sea (it has a small airport for close inter-island flights) the old traditions still go on. Boats are built on the beach in the shade of the palm trees, built by eye, using only simple hand tools. The island used to be an active whaling station, and although the tradition is now dying out, Bequians still make an occasional foray during the whaling season between February and April. At this time of year, humpback whales leave their northern feeding grounds to head south to mate and bear young.
The island is about 4 square miles. We had a generally relaxing time in Bequia, after the hectic life of St Lucia!! Life consisted of schooling in the mornings (Jimmy would head ashore to do “jobs” including morning coffee ….) – and then kayaking and snorkeling later in the afternoon.
We also met up with friends on a boat that we had last seen in Trinidad. Unfortunately they had just been robbed the night before, and also had someone board their boat at 4am in Dominica! We would generally think of Bequia being a safe place but security on a boat is always an issue in the islands, and it's necessary to take precautions.
Canouan
On Friday we had a lovely sail south to Canouan – a little over 16 miles - about 3 hours with perfect wind direction. We overtook a few boats on the way there, and soon had them out of sight - almost! - Always a good feeling!! The island is about 4 square miles.
Canouan has a lovely big, relatively shallow bay, great for anchoring. However, there were very few boats in the bay. Moorings Yacht Charters used to have their base in Canouan – being a great central starting place for people wanting to cruise the Grenadines. However once American Eagle stopped flying there, it makes Canouan an extremely difficult place to get to and now the base just acts as a service centre to boats rented out of St Lucia. Ashore at the base is like a ghost town. And the hotel next door looks nice but is expensive and empty. Apparently the 5 star Raffles resort up on the hill has also closed much of its hotel due to the economic downturn. This must have a big knock on effect to the small town, where there is little other opportunity for work.
After a walk around the town, we realized why we had not stopped there for some time. We stayed just one night.
Mayreau
Saturday 8th May – Jimmy’s birthday! A short motor down to Mayreau, a one-road island. We anchored in Salt Whistle Bay – a beautiful little bay with a sweeping half moon beach and palm trees. Birthday lunch at the small hotel on the beach, with stone table coves and thatched roof.
Charlotte made friends with some other children from Sweden in the bay – they went kayaking and ski bobbing.
The following night we anchored off Windward bay in the south of Mayreau. It was our first time in this bay - we had the whole bay to ourselves and the amazing thing was all the star-fish – there must have been about 100 around the boat!
Tobago Cays
On Monday we motored the short distance over to Tobago Cays – probably the biggest attraction of the Grenadines - a group of small deserted islands protected from the sea, only by Horseshoe Reef. The water and the reef colours are a kaleidoscope of gold, brown, blue, turquoise and green. In recent years they have made it a marine park and have roped off an area for non-anchoring, and made it a turtle reserve (by protecting the sea grass that they eat). Each year we see more turtles. We had a great time snorkeling and saw about 15 turtles – both big and small – sometimes up to 6 at once. It was very special.
Click on the link below to see some videos of turtles:
On the deserted island, by the reserve, we also saw white iguanas roaming around:
This was the island that Charlotte had had her 4th birthday party on back in 2007.
A couple of nights stop in Tobago Cays and then on Wednesday 12th May we motored the 5 miles to Union Island to clear out of the Grenadines (the only island in the southern Grenadines with customs and immigration facilities (a hike to the airport)). A short stop as Union Island is not a favourite of ours – just enough time for lunch on the conch shell island
and then another short motor down to the island of Carriacou (owned by Grenada). We anchored off Sandy Island (a favourite) for the night
with a trip over to Hillsborough on the mainland to clear into Grenada at the immigration (in the police station) and customs (in the port). As usual I wore my Windies Polo shirt – I must admit I bought it for the nice palm tree logo, having no idea is was the West Indies Cricket logo! – However it seems to put the government officials in a better mood when they think I support their team!!
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